Back to the Beginning: the Saglan Pullover

Looking back over the past several years, I have noticed it’s become a tradition of sorts: to release a basics garment pattern first thing in January. I suppose it feels right to start simple, to begin at the beginning.

And so now here I am again, in January of 2023, putting the finishing touches on a basics pullover pattern {edited to add: now published!}. Except this pattern, at first glance, may look strangely familiar and not exactly like a fresh start.

Versal Pullover c. 2020

It was two years ago now, that I published a pullover pattern called Versal. It is one of my most popular designs.

The name Versal is meant to be a hybrid of ‘versatile’ and ‘universal.’). It is a basic saddle shoulder pullover. But what makes the pattern special is the options it includes. I attempted to anticipate fit issues for various body types by offering modification instructions for figures with different proportions (narrow shoulders, wide shoulders, etc.). There is a version of Versal for everyone. Or so I genuinely thought.

But as more and more projects began to appear over the last two years, I noticed some issues that possibly even the knitters themselves might not have been aware of. The main one is gauge related: When saddle shoulder shaping is worked seamlessly, it requires adhesion to the standard stitch to row gauge ratio of 3/4. If this ratio is skewed toward more stitches per row (or fewer rows per stitch, whichever way you want to look at it), the result is a very distinct ruching at the shoulders - which, depending on the yarn used, may or may not disappear after blocking. I considered whether I could add (yet another) appendix to the pattern, advising how to deal with this issue. But unfortunately, the issue is inherent to the nature of saddle shoulder construction, so there are no easy solutions.

The other issue I could see in some projects, is that (again, depending on the yarn used and on the knitter’s technique) the neck opening was simultaneously too wide and insufficiently deep at the front. This particular issue is actually a byproduct of using short row neckline shaping (instead of traditional shaping) and cannot be resolved without completely changing the construction method.

It was then it truly hit me: No garment pattern, no matter how versatile, can possibly be ‘universal’ as far as fit, even with copious customisations. For some, an entirely different approach to the same idea may be necessary. And in thinking about what that approach might be, I came up with the pattern I am about to release: Saglan.

Admittedly (and deliberately), from a distance this new pattern looks very similar to Versal.

However, the Saglan pullover is a hybrid between saddle shoulder and raglan construction (hence the name!). Instead of the classic rectangular ‘saddles’, the Saglan’s shoulders are subtly flared and sloped, changing the increase rates for the body and shoulders in the upper section of the yoke. Which, in turn, resolves the rushing issue for those who cannot adhere to the standard stitch vs row gauge ratio.

An additional - and quite major - difference, is that the Saglan pattern features traditional neckline shaping instead of short rows. Meaning: You cast on only for the back of the neck and initially work flat, increasing at the start and end of the row to shape the neckline. Then after casting on additional stitches for the centre front, the rest is worked in the round.

This classic/ traditional method of neckline shaping is in fact my preferred approach, and I believe it to be superior to short rows in most standard design situations that do not involve circular yokes or an integrated neckband. However, short rows have been trendy with knitters for the past while. Looking back I admit that using this technique for Versal - which after all is a basic stockinette crewneck sweater - was perhaps an attempt to crowd-please on my part, at the cost of doing what was best for the design. (There, I needed to get that off my chest!)

Having said all that, Saglan is not intended as a replacement of Versal. It is very much a different pattern. And besides, there are lots and lots of knitters who feel Versal is perfect just the way it is - they would find any changes to it disappointing!

I present the Saglan pullover as an alternative option, which not only has a different shoulder aesthetic to Versal, but also uses an entirely different method of yoke construction.

Depending on your preferences, potential gauge issues, and other factors, you might prefer Saglan to Versal, or you might prefer Versal to Saglan, or you might like both patterns each in their own right.

Saglan (left) vs Versal (right), both in Höner och Eir Nutiden. Hopefully the side-by-side photos allow you to see the difference in the shape of the shoulders, as well as a subtler difference in the contours of the neckline.

I have also put together the chart below summarising the differences between the two patterns. I hope it helps you decide whether it makes sense for you to have both, or whether one suits you better than the other.

Saglan Pullover in my webshop
Saglan Pullover on ravelry

Versal Pullover in my webshop
Versal Pullover on ravelry