Some Assembly Required! a Story of Return and Departure

Last week, I released my first stranded colourwork pattern in almost two years: the Rural Symphony Pullover.

It’s funny. Because the one bizarre aspect of knitting stranded colourwork I had completely forgotten about, is that (assuming a certain level of proficiency, of course) it is faster than stockinette. In part that is due to the addictive nature of it. And also it is because there is a difference in row gauge that works in the knitter’s favour (a topic I will go into another time!). In any case, whilst experimenting with different construction elements, I managed to crank out 3 samples, which has given me plenty of time to reflect on my colourwork trajectory.

I admit that knowing some of you have been waiting for a new colourwork garment design, this release makes me a bit nervous… Because if you are used to patterns such as Cosmach, Jadwiga, Fiuise, Moinear, and Spleodar, you will find the Rural Symphony Pullover to be a departure.

The most obvious change from most of my previous colourwork garments (which featured circular yokes), is the drop-shoulder construction. This results in quite a difference in look and fit. And whether you see that as a welcome change, or a disappointing departure, is of course based on personal preference. For me… In all honesty, one reason I took a break from colourwork, is that it felt like the circular yoke thing had played itself out. I am ready to explore different construction methods, and have to trust that those who enjoy my patterns would be ready for a change as well.

Of course, moving away from the circular yoke crewneck construction introduces a bit of complexity. Namely: It necessitates steeks. The Rural Symphony Pullover features steeked underarms, as well as a steeked neckline to accommodate the deep v-neck opening.

For those who have not steeked before (or who’ve tried other steeked patterns and found them complicated), this may elicit a groan. But listen: I have developed a steeking method that is so simple, you will not notice it is happening.

And when it comes time to cut the steeks, a diagram is provided as well as detailed instructions. You can absolutely take on this pattern with no previous steeking experience what so ever. As long as you own a pair of scissors and a steam iron.

An additional quirk of the Rural Symphony Pullover, is that the construction is both bottom-up and top-down. Starting from he hem, the bodice and yoke are worked bottom-up in one piece. Then, after the steeks are cut open, stitches are picked up around the armholes and the sleeves are knitted top-down.

I know that some will find this topsy-turviness a bit dissonant (especially because it goes against the old-school colourwork principles). But because the colourwork charts are directionally reversible, this absolutely works.

Finally… the aspect of this new pattern that is the biggest departure from my usual is the collar. The shawl collar in itself is at this point a familiar element of my designs.

But what’s different here, is that the collar in the Rural Symphony Pullover is worked as a separate piece, then sewn into the neckline.

For those who are accustomed to pieced construction, this is hardly a big deal. But those who are used to my garment patterns it definitely is. In general, I tend to favour integrated button bands and collars (meaning they are worked at the same time as the main fabric). And even those that aren’t integrated, involve picking up stitches and being knitted onto the main fabric as it were. I have gone to great lengths in the past to avoid pieced construction that requires sewing stuff in.

So why now? Put simply: Because in order to end up with a collar that looks and behaves like the one in the photos, it was unavoidable. And after trying a few options, I decided that I preferred compromising on the ‘some assembly required’ aspect, than on the aesthetic and functionality of the collar. `

That said, I do admit that for me it is a compromise. I don’t love pieced construction, and sewing in collars is not my favourite. But I do love the collar! And having done the dreaded sewing 3 times now, I can say it was worth it. If it’s not your favourite either: Not to worry, because the pattern has photos and suggestions, walking you through the process. And if you need further help with this aspect of things, please feel free to contact me and we will get it done!

Well. If I haven’t managed to scare you away from it yet, you can purchase the Rural Symphony Pullover here in my webshop or on ravelry.

The samples shown here were knitted with Höner och Eir Nutiden, but the pattern is compatible with any steekable DK-Aran weight yarns.

For me this pattern represents a happy return to colourwork, as well as a departure from what had become so comfortable it almost began to feel stale. I hope you are inspired to give it a try.