Design vs Pattern Drafting
Q: I am curious why you describe yourself as a ‘handknits designer’ rather than a ‘knitting pattern designer.’ Is there a difference between the two? And if so, which do you recommend for someone considering this line of work?
A: This is an important question. And to answer it properly, we need to first delve into a wider discussion on what exactly constitutes ‘knitting pattern design.’ I will try to keep it brief and on-point, within reason!
The main source of confusion, is that what we colloquially refer to as ‘knitting pattern design’ is actually a combination of two separate jobs: (1) apparel design, and (2) pattern drafting.
Apparel design refers to the creative conjuring of a piece of apparel, including specifications for its style, proportions, fabric content, and other features.
Pattern drafting involves converting those specs into mathematical calculations, and then based on these generating a set of technical instructions, charts, and/or blueprints, for the repeatable production of that piece of apparel.
In the mainstream fashion industry, these two roles are almost never filled by the same person. The skills needed for them are completely different, and normally persons working in fashion specialise in one or the other.
First, the designer develops the concept, the look, and the feel of a piece of apparel. They will think through all the features and write them up as specifications. These specifications will then be passed on to the pattern drafter, who will convert them into a technical format which will allow for the piece of apparel to be produced (either by hand or machine), in a replicable manner and in accordance to the design.
In the knitting industry, independent pattern designers perform both of these roles. So we are in fact both apparel designers and pattern drafters.
And because the skill sets are so distinct and so different, it is not uncommon we might identify with one more so than with the other.
In that sense, I see myself as primarily an apparel designer, who drafts patterns as a necessary byproduct.
Conversely, others might see themselves as primarily pattern drafters, for whom it’s the design that’s the byproduct.
It is rare and generally not talked about, but sometimes outsourcing arrangements occur. For example, I have done consulting for yarn companies and even other indie pattern designers who needed ideas and specs for new designs but were happy to write up the patterns themselves. Conversely, one could make the argument that at times my tech editor does so much heavy lifting, she essentially becomes an assistant pattern drafter. Point being, we all have our strengths and weaknesses.
In summary…
The knitting industry is neither centralised, nor regulated in any meaningful way. Therefore, terminology can be fluid.
The term ‘knitting pattern designer’ can certainly be used to describe what I do. But I prefer ‘handknits designer,’ because I identify with the apparel design aspect more so than with the pattern drafting aspect (and in fact, am sometimes hired to do only the former). I should also mention it is possible to design handknits - as in one off garments - without a pattern existing at all. I do this on occasion as well, and have recently found a notebook with some of my oldest of such designs.
How you structure your practice, and which way you choose to describe yourself is entirely up to you. Just be prepared to take on both roles as needed …not to mention most likely a third, and a forth: the roles of sample knitter, and photographer!
