The Anatomy of a Ribbed Fabric… and How It Relates to Sizing & Fit

pattern: 6x2 Pullover (Dress Version)
yarn: Höner och Eir Nutiden

One of the most difficult and loaded questions to answer about a pattern, is the question ‘What Size Should I Knit?’

That is because this question is impossible to answer, without knowing (1) the person’s measurements, and (2) the person’s ease preferences - both of which are pieces of information that can be so challenging to extract, that the interaction often turns into a psychotherapy-like experience.

When it comes to patterns that involve a ribbed fabric, the sizing confusion is magnified.

More specifically, I get asked 2 types of questions repeatedly:

Q1. ‘What size should I knit, to get the same fit as the model in the photo?’

…which is then almost always accompanied by…

Q2. ‘But why is there so much positive ease specified, when the garment looks form-fitting - is this an error?’

Because the answers to these questions are related, I will tackle them together, in the context of ribbed fabric.

A ribbed fabric differs from flat, simple, predictable stockinette in two important ways: Firstly, ribbed fabric has dimensionality - meaning, it is closer to 3-D than 2-D. And second, a ribbed fabric is unstable - with the rib in a constant state of cinching and straightening, cinching and straightening, accordion-like, in response to external factors.

These qualities result in two seemingly contradictory effects: they exaggerate the fabric’s drape, and they exaggerate the fabric’s structure. The fabric clings to curved surfaces, and simultaneously gives more structure to those curves. Which in turn means, that whatever shapes and forms lie under the fabric, are highlighted and made to seem more substantial.

Translating this into plain English, whilst referring to the human body: Whatever curves and protrusions you’ve got under the ribbed fabric, no matter how subtle, will look exaggerated. Therefore, you need more ease in a ribbed fabric to achieve an equivalent-looking fit to what you would get with a stockinette fabric.

For example, in the photos above, especially the central one, notice it looks as if the fabric is stretched over the model’s chest. In fact, it has close to 10cm/ 4” of positive ease.

pattern: 6x2 Pullover
yarn: Höner och Eir Nutiden

Likewise, in the photos above the pullover and dress look relaxed, but not hyper-oversized on the model. In fact, both have nearly 25cm/ 10” of ease.

Okay, so we’ve covered the answer to the question of why you need more ease with this type of fabric. So… what size should you knit, to get the same fit as the model?

Well, here is the thing about that: In order for the garment to fit you the same as the model, you need to have a similar anatomy to the model.

For example, nothing I do, short of getting body-modifying surgery or prosthetics, will ever make a garment fit me the same as it fits Alex (in the first set of photos). Whereas Alex’s voluminous chest protrudes beyond her flat mid-section, my proportions are rather the opposite: I have a flat chest and a curved tummy. And then as you can see in the second set of photos, Leonie has different proportions still, where her chest and midsection are more or less equal in their curviness and outward projection.

So, please: When choosing a size, always consider your own figure. First, identify the curviest, and most ourwardly-protruding parts of your body. Then ask yourself, do you want to highlight these parts, or minimise them? If highlighting them is the goal, select a size with a moderate amount of ease (10cm/ 4” would constitute moderate for a ribbed fabric). If minimising is the goal, select a size with a lot of ease (at least 20cm/ 10”). And if you do not care and just want to be comfortable, go for something in between - i.e. approximately 15cm/ 6” of ease.

What kind of fit do I personally envision for the 6x2 Pullover pattern? Honestly, with this design it works either way.

I mean consider that Leonie (160cm, EU Size 38) and Alex (175cm, EU Size 44) are wearing the same dress! And I think that albeit in different ways, it suits them both equally well.

So it is entirely up to you, what look you’d like to achieve with the 6x2 Pullover or other ribbed design. The important thing is to understand how to achieve it, and I hope I have helped with that here.