Of Folk Noir and the Red Rhododendron
Someone once used the term ‘folk noir’ to describe my design aesthetic, and initially I thought it apt. The term comes from the music industry, and refers to a genre that blends folk and industrial music - the latter lending dark undertones to the former.
I could see how the tableau-like nature of my pattern photos lent itself to this comparison. But then upon thinking on it some more, something felt off about the very idea of ‘folk noir.’ Because folklore in fact does not need the noir added to it as a special qualifier; it already implies it.
In their essence, folkloric traditions emerged from dread of the unknown and the need to subdue it. The iconology, the symbolism, the ritual, the colourful garments, the painstaking artistry to make it all just so… all of it inherently contains undercurrents of trauma, both cultural and individual. It is the stuff folklore is made of.
I’ve been ruminating on this again while knitting a new sample for the updated version of the Móinéar pullover. Whereas the original sample looked distinctly ‘Irish,’ I wanted this one to reference Ukrainian folk attire.
The inspiration behind the colour palette came from the Ukrainian folk song Cervona Ruta, which translates as Red Rhododendron. Although the origins of this song go back further, it became embedded into the then-Soviet pop culture with a 1970s performance by the famous Romanian-Ukrainian singer Sofia Rotaru.
In her iconic rendition, the song was set to a catchy modern beat, and accompanied by a music video that showed the singer twirling through meadows in a traditionally embroidered gown.
Remembering this made me want to listen to the song again. I had heard Cervona Ruta many times before, and even sang along - but somehow without giving much thought to the lyrics. This time, I paid attention… and was admittedly taken aback by its content.
The song is from the perspective of a man, speaking to a young woman. He asks her to confess… Did she drug him with a specially prepared potion, in order to make him susceptible to her charms? He then goes on to explain that he actually witnessed her wandering through the meadows collecting red rhododendron flowers, and suspected they were for the purpose of drugging him. But here comes the twist: he did not mind. Because you see, he was already in love with her!
I had to listen to the lyrics a few times to get my head around it. I mean, have I got this right… The iconic folk song of my childhood seems to be about being flattered that your love interest tried to drug you? (No wonder I am prone to unhealthy relationships!)
Whether the idea of folk noir appeals to you, it is interesting to investigate the origins of traditions, archetypes, and iconologies. And I think my colourwork designs are my way of doing that.
Móinéar means ‘meadow’ in Irish. And I hope you enjoy the updated pattern, with the accompanying photos.
