Restoring Leather Patches on Denim

As mentioned previously, I am not a huge denim enthusiast. However, most of my friends are. And so recently I was drawn into a conversation concerning a curious issue.

Apparently, some of the better quality denim tends to feature sewn-on leather patches instead of cloth labels. These patches are made of thick and substantial leather, and are non-detachable. Which presents a laundering dilemma. Cotton denim is typically machine-washed at high temperatures - which is the exact opposite of how leather products should be treated. As a result, the leather patches on these jeans tend to become faded, discoloured and brittle over time - which kind of undermines the overall aesthetic and presentability of the garment.

Is the solution to avoid washing the jeans, or stick to a cool hand-wash? That seems to be the consensus among denim lovers.

But! As a cyclist with a preference for traditional leather saddles, I actually have an alternative suggestion. When leather is exposed to moisture for prologued periods of time, it loses its natural oils, which is what accounts for the loss of colour and suppleness. Therefore, the latter two can be restored by replacing the oils.

In the footwear world, this is known as leather conditioning. And you can certainly purchase leather conditioning products. But as owners of vintage bicycle saddles know, what actually works best for restoring water-damaged leather is mink oil.

However, purchasing either of these products purely for the purpose of restoring a small patch of leather on a pair of jeans, would not really be cost effective. And so, alternatively, it is entirely possible to make do with standard household cooking oil.

To apply the oil, a small paintbrush would be ideal. But assuming not everyone has one handy, you can instead use a q-tip or a small bit of cotton wool.

Needless to say, be very careful not to get any oil on the actual denim fabric! If you are not confident in the steadiness of your hand, you might want to mask off the denim area surrounding the patch (literally, place masking tape all around the patch before you begin).

Apply the oil steadily and evenly onto the patch. And don’t worry if it looks patchy; as you apply more layers the evenness of the coverage will improve. After you have gone over the entire surface once, do it again, then again - because you will notice the leather sort of ‘inhaling’ the oil, and then quickly fading again. This indicates fairly severe dehydration and just means you need to apply more oil. Once the colour has darkened a bit and the effect lasts, take a break and let the leather rest for 24 hours. Then repeat this process, until the patch is restored to its previous healthy plump state.

Enjoy the jeans… until it is time to wash them again!

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