Notes on Yarn Selection for the J&P Cardigan
J&P Cardigan in John Arbon Devonia DK,
Sage Sprig + Devonia Cream colourways
kits now available!
As always, I want to say from the start that out of principle I do not design ‘for’ a yarn. When I design a pattern, I ensure it is suitable for a general yarn weight (in this case, DK). It is then up to the knitter, which specific brand/ type of yarn they choose within the suitable weight range.
That said, obviously the look and feel of a garment will differ depending on the characteristics of the yarn you use. And as a knitter, I have my preferences. With the J&P Cardigan, I had a specific effect in mind as I was working on the design. And I think it is only right to share it with you, in case you would like to achieve the same.
From the start, I wanted the J&P Cardigan to have the texture and structure of garter stitch. But at the same time, I wanted the fabric to be fairly lightweight and flat; not heavy or puffy. Now, as anyone who has experience with garter stitch knows, that is a tall order! Because a garter stitch fabric is by its very nature compressed - i.e. heavy and puffy. So to avoid that effect, it is important to select a yarn that will counteract it.
I consulted about this with several folks in the industry, including John Arbon Mills. And after some rather interesting conversations, I decided that John Arbon Devonia had the specs I was looking for. I selected the colours Sage Sprig and Devonia Cream for the main pattern sample.
I was not wrong! With its gently-plied blend of 50% Exmoor Blueface, 30% West Country Bluefaced Leicester, and 20% West Country Lustre Breeds blend, Devonia is exactly what I mean by a ‘flat’ yarn. It is firm and sturdy, and creates a fabric that keeps its shape and shows off texture with an ever-so-slight blurred effect. But it does not tend toward puffiness, springiness, roundness, or how-ever else you want to describe the quality I wanted to avoid.
Because of its fibre content Devonia has another interesting feature, in that it has both lustre (shininess) and a halo (slight fuzziness), which results in a rather intriguing combination of textures that I thought suits the ‘jeans and pearls’ theme nicely.
Finally, at 233 metres per 100g, it is also on the lighter end of the DK weight rage, which results in literally a lighter-weight garment, than one made from a heavier yarn.
So… the questions for you to consider, as you are planning to knit this cardigan:
Is the weight of a garment important to you?
Is the flatness vs puffiness of the fabric important?
Is the texture important?
On the J&P Cardigan pattern page, I have photographed other samples (made by Anna and Heather), which were knitted in Drops Karisma and in Cygnet sock yarn held double. Both of those options are DK weight, and absolutely work with the pattern’s gauge - as will all DK yarns.
But what you don’t really see in the photos, is that both of the garments shown above are quite heavy and thick, in comparison to my John Arbon Devonia sample. You may also notice that the colours have a flatter, starker look as the yarns are super wash treated and lack textural complexity. And I am not saying any of that is a bad thing. The J&P Cardigan does not ‘need’ to have lustre and/ or halo by any means. It does not ‘need’ to be lightweight. These are all matters of personal preference. You can even knit this cardigan in a 100% cotton yarn for summer, as long as it’s DK weight. But the differences need to be acknowledged for sure. (In other words, what you can’t do is knit it in cotton and expect the look and feel of my sample; it will be different.)
I have opted to work with John Arbon on this and other projects, because it is an independently owned, small-scale production mill with a focus on native breeds, which is reasonably local to me and is highly personable.
If John Arbon yarn is not accessible for you - either for financial reasons or for reasons of geographical location - you can still replicate the look and feel of my J&P sample by opting for certain qualities in your yarn. Namely:
. look for meterage toward the lighter end of DK (more meters per 100g)
. if possible, look for BFL or Gotland content
. look for a surface texture that is a tiny bit fuzzy, rater than very smooth and glossy
. look for complex/ blended colours rather than flat colours
. avoid superwash
. avoid yarn described as high-twist, ‘round,’ or ‘springy/ bouncey’
. avoid merino content, especially combined with above
I hope this has been helpful!
John Arbon has kindly put together some yarn kits for the J&P Cardigan, and you can purchase them here.
Pattern:
J&P Cardigan on ravelry
J&P Cardigan in the webshop
